Pokémon Card Beginner’s Hub

New to collecting Pokémon cards? This is the place to start: how to buy without overpaying, how to check a card’s condition, what each grading company looks for, and the free tools that help you decide what to buy, open, hold or grade.

Start here

Five rules for new collectors

1
Know the MSRP. Sealed product has a set retail price (an Elite Trainer Box is usually about $50–60). Paying far over it on day one is how most new collectors lose money. Check our release calendar for MSRPs and the restock tracker for retail drops.
2
Buy the card, not the pack, if you want a specific card. Opening packs is fun, but buying the single you want almost always costs less than chasing it.
3
Check the price before you buy. Look up any card on our card price pages: today’s price, the 30-day trend and the graded prices.
4
Protect cards right away. Penny sleeve, then a top loader or semi-rigid holder. Most condition damage happens in the first five minutes out of the pack.
5
Only grade cards that pay for it. Grading costs money and time. Pre-grade first, then run the numbers in the grading calculator.

Words you’ll see

Raw
An ungraded card, not in a grading company’s slab.
Slab / graded
A card sealed in a hard plastic case by a grading company, with a label showing its grade (for example PSA 10).
NM (Near Mint)
The condition most raw prices assume: clean, with at most tiny wear.
Pop report (population)
How many copies a grading company has graded at each grade. Low pop at a high grade usually means a higher price.
SIR, IR, UR, Hyper Rare
Rarity names in modern sets: Special Illustration Rare and Illustration Rare are the full-art chase cards most collectors want.
ETB, Booster Bundle, Booster Box
Common sealed products: an Elite Trainer Box has 8–9 packs plus accessories, a Booster Bundle 6 packs, a Booster Box 36 packs.
EV (expected value)
The average value of the cards you’d pull from a product. Our Open or Hold? tool compares it to the sealed price.
Centering
How evenly the picture sits inside the borders, written as left/right, for example 55/45. It’s the most common reason a card misses a 10.
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